This is my blog which describes my trip to the Himalayas in August 2012.
Nothing exciting to report here. It was a comfortable train journey.
Photos
None.
Audio Log
Food Watch
Avoid train food! Manage with fruits and water!
Soul Space
Read uplifting books and music! Use the curtains provided in 2AC car and meditate!
I get to Rishikesh at 6 pm and the moment u enter Rishikesh the first thing that strikes you is the towering Himalayan mountains overlooking the temple/ashram town....
This is where the Himalayas start and the mountains go on and on and on from here...
This time its the monsoon and the clouds hovering the moutains add an ethereal atmosphere to the place...
I like to stay near the Laxman Jhula. So i check in at the Jaipur Inn. Its a nice, clean and basic hotel.
Audio Log
Food Watch
Soul Space
Tons of ashrams for your soul! This time i visited the Kriya Yoga Ashram of Mahavatar Babaji and the Sivananda Ashram - Divine life society
Enroute to Joshimath, one passes through four of the “prayags” (or confluence of rivers).
You pass through Devprayag which is the first prayag on this route.
This is where the Alaknanda and the Bhagirathi rivers meet to form the holy River Ganga.
At Rudraprayag (The Mandakini merges into the the Alaknanda here).
The next prayag will be at Karnaprayag where the Pindar river merges into the Alaknanda.
After this pass through Nandaprayag where Alaknanda and Nandakini rivers meet.
I reach Joshimath at 5:30 am. I go to GMVN Joshimath and found that i can take a Taxi to Auli. The Ropeway which connects Josimath and Auli is not working. So i take the cab and head to Auli. It costed me Rs 1200 for a return trip. Bargain hard! The cab guy agreed to get me back from Auli tomorrow morning.
The road is winding but pleasant. We pass thro an Army base and Alpine forests and reach the GMVN ski resort at Auli.
It was kind of dark when i got there, i checked into the Dorm which cost me Rs 210.
There was no one there and i had the entire room to myself!
I was almost alone in the entire resort as this is off season! The atmosphere was calm and silent! It was nippy and cold. I luved the atmosphere.
I shall get better views tomorrow morning. Hope its sunny!
I have a simple meal of Dal and Rotis and crash!
Food Watch
Soul Space
The atmosphere is so peaceful here. Its silent. No shops, no traffic, no car horns. Its quiet. Its perfect for the soul.
Auli is blessed with a breathtaking panoramic views of the lofty peaks of the Himalayas. It is surrounded by high peaks like Mana, Kamet, Trishul, Dronagiri and tallest of all Nanda Devi. There are few other small peaks like the Hathi parvath, the sleeping beauty and others.
I quickly snapped some pics and did my energization exercises. I spent some time at the temple and walked around in the morning quiet.
The morning walk along the winding road was perfect. Beautiful fresh grass, cows grazing, sunny skies, fresh and crisp air, pine and fir trees, the quiet atmosphere...
What a way to start my holiday! I luved every moment of it.
There is a sky lift from the resort, which takes you to the higher meadows of Auli....so i hop on the cable car and enjoy the ride. I land at Tower 9, which is Auli. There was a big gang from Gujarat coming from Youth Hostels. From tower 9 there i decide to trek alone towards Tower 10 at Gorson. I met some army guys who are going beyond Gorson. But i decide to get back.
The view of the Nanda Devi from Gorson takes your breath away. Just sitting at Gorson and taking in the views of the Himalayas made my trip!
I head back to tower 9, take the cable car ride back to GMVN and my cab driver was waiting for me to take me to Joshimath.
I say goodbye to Auli and go back down to Joshimath.
My friend Sunil, just got back from his trip to Badrinath. We check in at GMVN Joshimath.
I recommend staying at GMVN TRH (new) at Joshimath. The old GMVN (Main Bazaar) was not good.
We visit the Math, which was one of the four cardinal institutions established by Adi Shankara, the others being those at Shringeri, Puri and Dwaraka.
We also meditate at the Adi Shankara cave, which had some great vibrations.
Food Watch
Soul Space
At Joshimath, the Math is a peaceful place to meditate. Also the Adi Shankara cave, which had some great vibrations.
At the Gurudwara, brace yourself for the Punjab invasion of Utharkhand. Sikhs everywhere, all coming to visit the Hemkund Sahib gurudwara.
Govind Ghat has great facilities for pilgrims, travellers etc. Free lockers, free accomodation, free food.
This is how i approached the trek. I decided to trek continuously for 1 hour without taking a sitting break. U do run out of breath while going uphill, then i just stand and get my breath back.
If i sit, i will cool down and thatz not good. You wanna stay warm and keep going.
Every hour i took a break and had a fruit, almonds. Thatz it. I absolutely avoid maida biscuits and fizzy drinks.
At the last break at 12:30 i treated myself with a 5-Star and Minute Maid lemon juice. When i drank the lemon juice i could feel the salts and other nutrients entering my system. It was very refreshing!
Thatz the way i did the trek, some people like random breaks, some people like biscuits and fizzy drinks, it keeps them going. Whatever works for u!
Unlike the Gangotri trek, there are all kinds of shops along the trek every 1 km or so.
Also looking at the Sikhs keeps you going. After this trek me and Sunil have decided that
"Singh is really the King!". What amazing people. You see 50-60 year old men and women, middle aged women, kids, people walking in barefoot. All in name of faith.
Great will power along with physical strength. At the same time so large hearted. Amazing.
I reached Ghangria at 1:00 PM and sat near the helipad and so i did 15 km in 5 hours. Not bad. I dont know where Sunil is. I dragged myself to the GMVN hotel and sat on the ledge for 15-20 mins just to get my breath back.
I talk to the Manager and upgrade my room from Dorm to an Economy room!
Sitting here i meet Saurabh from Delhi, who trekked alone. A family from Gurgaon and a fun gujju group from Mumbai. Sunil arrives at 4:30 pm! He took his own time and enjoyed the trek! I was one of the first one to arrive and me along with the hotel manager welcomed the tired public! This was a memorable evening.
That night we make great friends. Sunil and Saurabh, me and the Mumbai gang sit by the bon-fire and enjoy the warmth in the cold!
It was freezing in the room, we get inside the blankets and all of us sleep like babies!
Food Watch
Soul Space
Its hard to get some quiet here at Gangria. As the hotel is bang in the downtown.
The gurudwara can also be noisy. But still a decent place to sit in your inner silence.
We ordered packed lunch the previous night as there are no shops in the Valley of Flowers national park. The friendly GMVN staff packed lunches for everyone and gave it to us at 7:00 AM.
We were sitting down and staring at the Garhwal range of Himalayas right in front, surrounded on all sides by pine forests and shrouded in a thin veil of mist. It was spectacular.
The trail is well laid out. Its green, fresh because of the overnight rain and everyone were smiling with expectancy! Everyone were happy and smiling. It was fun to watch people! We cross Pine forests then cross a bridge over the flowing Pushpavati river and climb a mountain with forests. All this while, we spot lots of flowers along the trail. People use their sophisticated cameras and go click crazy.
And then we reach the Glacier. This glacier forms in the cold winters and we get to see little of it now in the summers. Will this glacier will remain in 20-30 years from now or will Global warming take another victim? Saurabh goes down on the glacier and gets a piece of ice for me! He got lucky, other guys got blasted by the national park authorities for walking on glacial ice! Its a strict no-no for walking on the glacier ice. Lets keep this amazing natural phenomenon for the coming generations. OK?
We cross the stream and we enter the meadows proper. This is where we start seeing flowers galore. We soon find beautiful Himalayan balsams, Asters, Edelweiss and many other flowering plants. We notice that PINK is the dominating color here.... Its the week for Balsam!
The valley puts on a different color every month depending on the prominent blooming species of that time. During late July red flowers dominate the scene, before that yellow and now in Mid August its the pink Balsam. And in last August its white flowers.
Some sections of the valley were dominated by white flowers, although there were Balsams everywhere and some sections there were flowers of all colors. It absolutely was incredible. This truly is the Valley of Flowers!
The rich diversity of species reflects the valley's location within a transition zone between the Zaskar and Great Himalayas ranges to the north and south, respectively, and between the Eastern Himalaya and Western Himalaya flora.
Kudos to the Utharkhand forest department, the whole valley is well maintained without a piece of paper or plastic visible anywhere. Perhaps the fact that they are just allowing nature to manage it her own way is the reason for the beauty. The stone paved walkways are a treat to see amongst all the bushes and flowers.
We have our packed lunch and it starts to rain a little. Saurabh thinks its good idea to visit the grave of a certain 'Joan Margaret Legge'. We agreed and quickly started walking towards the grave. In 1937, Frank S. Smythe and his team of British mountaineers, lost their way while returning from a successful expedition to Mt.Kamet and happened upon the valley, which was full of flowers. He was attracted to the beauty of the area, he named it the "Valley of Flowers." He later authored a book of the same name.
The British government wanted to document more bout this enchanting valley and in 1939 sent, Miss Margaret Legge, a botanist with the Royal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh, for further studies. While she was traversing some rocky slopes to collect flowers, she slipped off and was lost. Her sister later visited the valley and erected a memorial near the spot. We will visit the memorial take some pics and offer some flowers to the botanist.
‘Gar firdaus bar rue zameen ast / hameen asto, hameen asto, hameen ast’ -Persian
In English it means: If ever there is Paradise on Earth – It is here! It is here! It is here!
This place absolutely was enchanting and we head back to Ghangria turning back to look at the valley one last time.
This evening it started raining and we could not make any bon fires. But we again slept like babies, contended after visiting the magical valley called the 'Valley of Flowers'.
Food Watch
Complete surrender to faith is blissful I suppose. The moment you convince yourself that all decisions on your behalf will be made by a higher authority, life becomes much simpler and easier.
Day 6 - Ghangria (3100 m) to GovindGhat (1900 m) to Badrinath ( 3753 m)
I wake up at 6am and get hit by a double whammy. I had a crazy cold and running nose and my back started hurting for some weird reason. I applied some Vonini for the back and took a Sinarest pill and checked out of the Ghangria hotel. Luckily i had an amazing backpack with metal rods. This REI backpack ensures that the weight is on the metal rods than your back.
Thus i could trek comfortably.
There were very few people climbing down at that time. But lots of people climbing up.
85% of the trek is downhill, so it was easy. I left at 7:15 and reached Govind Ghat at 11:15. The trek was uneventful and i actually got bored during the last 45 mins. Just going down...going down... I kinda slowed down considerably during the last 1 hour. I sat in some shops, had a refreshing appy, spoke with the shop guys and was in a mood to lie down with a book or something rather than trek down!!!
Anyway i reached Govind Ghat, took my stuff from the lockers at the Gurudrawa, donated somemoney for the Gurudwara and walked to the main road (NH-58)
There i found 1 share jeep guy, with a group of Sikhs wanting to go to Badrinath. The cab driver wanted Rs 200 per head for a trip to Badrinath (1 hour). I agreed and got into the jeep.
Wow. The pleasures of motorized transport. After trekking 4 continuous days, it was good to sit in a jeep and have conversations with the Sikhs. Apparently the guy was an army guy and he was accompanying his 2 sisters and a brother to Badrinath for darshan.
I say goodbye to the Army guy and his sisters. I check in at GMVN - Devlok at Badrinath. I was dead tired. Had the most amazing Dal + Jeera Rice and crashed.....
Woke up at 5pm, feeling slightly better. Decided to check out the scene at Badrinath and have a darshan at the temple.
I check out the Tapt Kund just near the Badrinath temple. A natural spring that possesses therapeutic characteristics Tapt Kund is believed to be the holy abode of Lord Agni. Pilgrims believe that a holy dip in this sacred pond relieves them from their sinful deeds and thought. The pond water measures 45°C temperature and it is located above the riverbank. It makes every visitor enthralled with its rejuvenating gush. A hot water spring in the midst of snowy peaks of Himalayas is quite a wonderful vista of nature that persuade even an impudent to think about the marvel of the creator.
Had dinner and crashed.
The other option is Hotel Saket. They have good Punjabi Thali's.
I visited Joshimath, Auli, Gobind Ghat, Ghangria, Valley of Flowers, Hemkund Sahib, Badrinath and Mana Village
You can view the entire album with comments by clicking on the following link or read the blog, listen to the audio logs and watch each day's photos!
View Entire Photo Album
You can view the entire album with comments by clicking on the following link or read the blog, listen to the audio logs and watch each day's photos!
View Entire Photo Album
Day 0 - Pune (600 m) to Delhi (100 m)
The day has arrived! Took the PMPML bus to Shivajinagar in Pune and went to the railway station with my huge backpack! Boarded the 2AC train from Pune to Delhi. Nothing exciting to report here. It was a comfortable train journey.
Photos
None.
Audio Log
Food Watch
Avoid train food! Manage with fruits and water!
Soul Space
Read uplifting books and music! Use the curtains provided in 2AC car and meditate!
Day 1 - Delhi(100 m) to Rishikesh (372 m)
I got out of Hazrat Nizamuddin station and took an Auto to Anand Vihar bus stand in Delhi.
The Kashmere Gate ISBT is under renovation, so all buses to Utharkhand are diverted to Anand Vihar ISBT.
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| clouds on the moutains add an ethereal atmosphere |
This time its the monsoon and the clouds hovering the moutains add an ethereal atmosphere to the place...
I like to stay near the Laxman Jhula. So i check in at the Jaipur Inn. Its a nice, clean and basic hotel.
Food Watch
Enjoy international cuisine for the last time! Its going to be desi khana the rest of the journey!
I highly recommend Buddha Cafe and Ganga Cafe. Very good quality Pasta, Enchilada and Sandwiches.
Try the chocolate ball at the Buddha Cafe! Yummy!
I highly recommend Buddha Cafe and Ganga Cafe. Very good quality Pasta, Enchilada and Sandwiches.
Try the chocolate ball at the Buddha Cafe! Yummy!
Soul Space
Tons of ashrams for your soul! This time i visited the Kriya Yoga Ashram of Mahavatar Babaji and the Sivananda Ashram - Divine life society
Day 2 - Rishikesh (372 m) to Auli (3049 m)
Got up at 6 am, packed and left Laxman Jhula. Reached Tehri bus stand and found a bus going to Joshimath. Its a 10+ hour bus journey. So its better to start early. The ticket costs around 200 Rs. Those who wanna go in more comfort can hire a SUV and pay more!
Joshimath is the winter home of Sri Badrinathji. It is situated on the slopes above the confluence of Alaknanda and Dhauliganga. It is one of the 'maths' established by Adi guru Shankaracharya.Enroute to Joshimath, one passes through four of the “prayags” (or confluence of rivers).
 |
| Dev Prayag |
This is where the Alaknanda and the Bhagirathi rivers meet to form the holy River Ganga.
At Rudraprayag (The Mandakini merges into the the Alaknanda here).
The next prayag will be at Karnaprayag where the Pindar river merges into the Alaknanda.
After this pass through Nandaprayag where Alaknanda and Nandakini rivers meet.
I reach Joshimath at 5:30 am. I go to GMVN Joshimath and found that i can take a Taxi to Auli. The Ropeway which connects Josimath and Auli is not working. So i take the cab and head to Auli. It costed me Rs 1200 for a return trip. Bargain hard! The cab guy agreed to get me back from Auli tomorrow morning.
The road is winding but pleasant. We pass thro an Army base and Alpine forests and reach the GMVN ski resort at Auli.
It was kind of dark when i got there, i checked into the Dorm which cost me Rs 210.
 |
| I check into the GMVN resort at Auli. |
I was almost alone in the entire resort as this is off season! The atmosphere was calm and silent! It was nippy and cold. I luved the atmosphere.
I shall get better views tomorrow morning. Hope its sunny!
I have a simple meal of Dal and Rotis and crash!
Photos
Audio Log
Food Watch
Simple Indian food at GMVN restaurant!
Soul Space
The atmosphere is so peaceful here. Its silent. No shops, no traffic, no car horns. Its quiet. Its perfect for the soul.
There is a temple at the top of the GMVN resort. Good spot to meditate.
Day 3 - Auli (3049 m) to Joshimath (1980 m)
Got up at 6 am and looked out of my dorm window... and what a view i was treated to!
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| Nanda Devi from Auli |
I quickly snapped some pics and did my energization exercises. I spent some time at the temple and walked around in the morning quiet.
 |
| Cows grazing |
The morning walk along the winding road was perfect. Beautiful fresh grass, cows grazing, sunny skies, fresh and crisp air, pine and fir trees, the quiet atmosphere...
What a way to start my holiday! I luved every moment of it.
There is a sky lift from the resort, which takes you to the higher meadows of Auli....so i hop on the cable car and enjoy the ride. I land at Tower 9, which is Auli. There was a big gang from Gujarat coming from Youth Hostels. From tower 9 there i decide to trek alone towards Tower 10 at Gorson. I met some army guys who are going beyond Gorson. But i decide to get back.
The view of the Nanda Devi from Gorson takes your breath away. Just sitting at Gorson and taking in the views of the Himalayas made my trip!
I head back to tower 9, take the cable car ride back to GMVN and my cab driver was waiting for me to take me to Joshimath.
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| Switzerland?? Montana, USA?? No its Auli!! |
My friend Sunil, just got back from his trip to Badrinath. We check in at GMVN Joshimath.
I recommend staying at GMVN TRH (new) at Joshimath. The old GMVN (Main Bazaar) was not good.
We visit the Math, which was one of the four cardinal institutions established by Adi Shankara, the others being those at Shringeri, Puri and Dwaraka.
We also meditate at the Adi Shankara cave, which had some great vibrations.
We pack and sleep. Tomorrow is the big day, our trekking leg of the trip begins!
Photos
Audio Log
Food Watch
Simple Indian food at GMVN restaurant!
Soul Space
At Joshimath, the Math is a peaceful place to meditate. Also the Adi Shankara cave, which had some great vibrations.
Day 4 - Joshimath (1980 m) to Ghangria (3100 m)
Today is the big day of trekking! We have to trek 15km from Govind Ghat to Ghangria and 85% of the trek is a gradual uphill. Its going to be tough.
The nightmare trek from Gangotri to Bhojbaasa (in 2009) kept flashing in my mind. On that occasion, by the time the trek ended, i barely could speak let alone walk.
I just decided to let go of those nightmares coz every trek is different!
Sunil and I woke up at 6 am and checked out of the GMVN, Joshimath. We take a share jeep from here to Govind Ghat. It just costs Rs 40.
At Govind Ghat we have a delicious breakfast of Poori Bhaji and dead towards the gurudwara.
 |
| Sikhs of all ages... |
Govind Ghat has great facilities for pilgrims, travellers etc. Free lockers, free accomodation, free food.
We dump the stuff that we absolutely dont need at the lockers and try to carry a light backpack!
We start the trek to cries of "Jo Bole So Nihal..." and "Wahe Guru"!
We start the trek to cries of "Jo Bole So Nihal..." and "Wahe Guru"!
If i sit, i will cool down and thatz not good. You wanna stay warm and keep going.
 |
| Cricket at Ghangria's Helipad! |
At the last break at 12:30 i treated myself with a 5-Star and Minute Maid lemon juice. When i drank the lemon juice i could feel the salts and other nutrients entering my system. It was very refreshing!
Thatz the way i did the trek, some people like random breaks, some people like biscuits and fizzy drinks, it keeps them going. Whatever works for u!
Unlike the Gangotri trek, there are all kinds of shops along the trek every 1 km or so.
Also looking at the Sikhs keeps you going. After this trek me and Sunil have decided that
"Singh is really the King!". What amazing people. You see 50-60 year old men and women, middle aged women, kids, people walking in barefoot. All in name of faith.
Great will power along with physical strength. At the same time so large hearted. Amazing.
 |
| GMVN - Ghangria |
I reached Ghangria at 1:00 PM and sat near the helipad and so i did 15 km in 5 hours. Not bad. I dont know where Sunil is. I dragged myself to the GMVN hotel and sat on the ledge for 15-20 mins just to get my breath back.
I talk to the Manager and upgrade my room from Dorm to an Economy room!
Sitting here i meet Saurabh from Delhi, who trekked alone. A family from Gurgaon and a fun gujju group from Mumbai. Sunil arrives at 4:30 pm! He took his own time and enjoyed the trek! I was one of the first one to arrive and me along with the hotel manager welcomed the tired public! This was a memorable evening.
That night we make great friends. Sunil and Saurabh, me and the Mumbai gang sit by the bon-fire and enjoy the warmth in the cold!
It was freezing in the room, we get inside the blankets and all of us sleep like babies!
Audio Log
Food Watch
The food scene at Ghangria is very varied! There is Punjabi,
Punjabi and more Punjabi options! Hey! Am not complaining. I luv Punjabi food. Its so rich and yummy.
Hotel Khalsa bang opposite GMVN was our favorite.
Hotel Devlok also makes thick,rich and yummy Aaloo Paranthas. Perfect for breakfasts before the treks.
Hotel Khalsa bang opposite GMVN was our favorite.
Hotel Devlok also makes thick,rich and yummy Aaloo Paranthas. Perfect for breakfasts before the treks.
Soul Space
Its hard to get some quiet here at Gangria. As the hotel is bang in the downtown.
The gurudwara can also be noisy. But still a decent place to sit in your inner silence.
Day 5 - Ghangria (3100 m) to Valley of Flowers (3500 m)
 |
| The Valley of Flowers |
We were sitting down and staring at the Garhwal range of Himalayas right in front, surrounded on all sides by pine forests and shrouded in a thin veil of mist. It was spectacular.
From Gangharia, the route to the valley and Hemkund separates after crossing the Laxman Ganga river on a tin sheet bridge - the one to the left goes to the valley and the one to the right to Hemkund. There is a forest office at the beginning of the VoF trek route from where you have to get entry passes. Though you start seeing a lot of flowers from this point, the actual entrance of the valley is four kilometers from there.
And then we reach the Glacier. This glacier forms in the cold winters and we get to see little of it now in the summers. Will this glacier will remain in 20-30 years from now or will Global warming take another victim? Saurabh goes down on the glacier and gets a piece of ice for me! He got lucky, other guys got blasted by the national park authorities for walking on glacial ice! Its a strict no-no for walking on the glacier ice. Lets keep this amazing natural phenomenon for the coming generations. OK?
We cross the stream and we enter the meadows proper. This is where we start seeing flowers galore. We soon find beautiful Himalayan balsams, Asters, Edelweiss and many other flowering plants. We notice that PINK is the dominating color here.... Its the week for Balsam!
 |
| All sorts of colors |
Some sections of the valley were dominated by white flowers, although there were Balsams everywhere and some sections there were flowers of all colors. It absolutely was incredible. This truly is the Valley of Flowers!
The rich diversity of species reflects the valley's location within a transition zone between the Zaskar and Great Himalayas ranges to the north and south, respectively, and between the Eastern Himalaya and Western Himalaya flora.
Kudos to the Utharkhand forest department, the whole valley is well maintained without a piece of paper or plastic visible anywhere. Perhaps the fact that they are just allowing nature to manage it her own way is the reason for the beauty. The stone paved walkways are a treat to see amongst all the bushes and flowers.
 |
| Beautiful.. |
 |
| Miss Margaret Legge's memorial |
‘Gar firdaus bar rue zameen ast / hameen asto, hameen asto, hameen ast’ -Persian
In English it means: If ever there is Paradise on Earth – It is here! It is here! It is here!
This place absolutely was enchanting and we head back to Ghangria turning back to look at the valley one last time.
This evening it started raining and we could not make any bon fires. But we again slept like babies, contended after visiting the magical valley called the 'Valley of Flowers'.
Photos
Audio Log
Food Watch
Pack lunch before going to the valley, as there are no shops in the national park.
The food scene at Ghangria is very varied! There is Punjabi, Punjabi and more Punjabi options! Hey! Am not complaining. I luv Punjabi food. Its so rich and yummy.
Hotel Khalsa bang opposite GMVN was our favorite.
Hotel Devlok also makes thick,rich and yummy Aaloo Paranthas. Perfect for breakfasts before the treks.
The food scene at Ghangria is very varied! There is Punjabi, Punjabi and more Punjabi options! Hey! Am not complaining. I luv Punjabi food. Its so rich and yummy.
Hotel Khalsa bang opposite GMVN was our favorite.
Hotel Devlok also makes thick,rich and yummy Aaloo Paranthas. Perfect for breakfasts before the treks.
Soul Space
Just visiting the valley of flowers is food for your soul.
Just visiting the valley of flowers is food for your soul.
Day 6 - Ghangria (3100 m) to Hemkund Sahib (4329 m)
We wake up and find that its all foggy and raining. Hmmm...can we make it to Hemkund or we skip it. But looking at the Sikhs going in-spite of the fog and rain inspired us.
Sunil has decided to leave earlier was he wants to get back soon. So Saurabh and I have some paranthas and start trekking to Hemkund Sahib.
Hemkund is a beautiful lake at a breathtaking altitude of 4,329 m, and has a gurdwara, Hemkund Sahib, which a holy place for the sikhs.
Sunil has decided to leave earlier was he wants to get back soon. So Saurabh and I have some paranthas and start trekking to Hemkund Sahib.
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| Faith can move mountains |
This is a steep climb which goes on for 5 km. And it takes one to an altitude of 4,329 metres! Hemkund is a beautiful lake at this altitude, surrounded by snow peaks. There is a gurdwara, Hemkund Sahib, and a Lakshman temple on the banks of this lake. At an altitude of 4,329 metres, these are the highest places of worship in India. It is believed that Guru Gobind Singh meditated there in his previous life after defeating a demon that terrorized both mortals and Gods.
Hemkund literally means 'lake of ice' - and true to its name, for eight months of the year this lake is frozen and inaccessible.
Soon Saurabh and I split and i started to go ahead and he took a short cut or whatever and i never saw him again!
I kept hearing the Sikhs chanting "Sadhnam...Waheguru"! So i too started chanting the same! Its amazing how religion can make people do the impossible. There were 70-80 year olds who were climbing the hill barefoot, while even a lot of youngsters were preferring ponies.
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| Hemkund Sahib at 4329 m |
Towards the last part of the trail, there are two options to go ahead - either take a flight of steps or take a longer winding stone paved path. I took the steps as it seemed more challenging. Although there is more chances of spotting the BhramaKamal in the winding stone paved path. So its a choice you will have to make at that spot.
After 4 hours of climb, i finally reached Hemkund. Its a beautiful sight to behold, the lotus shaped gurudwara by the lake, surrounded by mountains. The Hemkund lake is fed by small streams and glaciers from the mountains around and has crystal clear water. The water in the lake is holy for the Sikhs who take bath in it to wash away their sins. I could not see the lake properly as it was all misty. There is free food at the langar, free lockers for your belongings and its amazing how the Sikhs manage the logistics at this altitude.
I met both Sunil and Saurabh there and its freezing at the top. And i go to the Gurudwara and sit on a warm blanket and enjoy the special vibrations. When i come out, i feel more colder!
I check out the lake, but its all shrouded in mist. I decide to leave the spot. I return by the same way and its an easier trek downhill. Sunil and Saurabh decide to stay a little longer.
I get back by 2pm. Sunil and Saurabh are drenched by the time they get back at 3:30 pm.
Both of them decide to get back to Govind Ghat now as they are drenched anyway. We take a parting photo for memories and say our goodbyes.
I decide to spend another night before descending to Govind Ghat tomorrow in leisure.
Soul Space
Hemkund Sahib Gurudwara has good vibrations. Ensure u buy a head scarf when u enter the gurudwara.
I met both Sunil and Saurabh there and its freezing at the top. And i go to the Gurudwara and sit on a warm blanket and enjoy the special vibrations. When i come out, i feel more colder!
I check out the lake, but its all shrouded in mist. I decide to leave the spot. I return by the same way and its an easier trek downhill. Sunil and Saurabh decide to stay a little longer.
I get back by 2pm. Sunil and Saurabh are drenched by the time they get back at 3:30 pm.
Both of them decide to get back to Govind Ghat now as they are drenched anyway. We take a parting photo for memories and say our goodbyes.
I decide to spend another night before descending to Govind Ghat tomorrow in leisure.
Audio Log
Food Watch
You get great kichdi at the langar at the Hemkund Sahib gurudwara.
The food scene at Ghangria is very varied! There is Punjabi, Punjabi and more Punjabi options! Hey! Am not complaining. I luv Punjabi food. Its so rich and yummy.
Hotel Khalsa bang opposite GMVN was our favorite.
Hotel Devlok also makes thick,rich and yummy Aaloo Paranthas. Perfect for breakfasts before the treks.
Hotel Khalsa bang opposite GMVN was our favorite.
Hotel Devlok also makes thick,rich and yummy Aaloo Paranthas. Perfect for breakfasts before the treks.
Soul Space
Hemkund Sahib Gurudwara has good vibrations. Ensure u buy a head scarf when u enter the gurudwara.
Day 6 - Ghangria (3100 m) to GovindGhat (1900 m) to Badrinath ( 3753 m)
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| Badrinath streets |
There were very few people climbing down at that time. But lots of people climbing up.
85% of the trek is downhill, so it was easy. I left at 7:15 and reached Govind Ghat at 11:15. The trek was uneventful and i actually got bored during the last 45 mins. Just going down...going down... I kinda slowed down considerably during the last 1 hour. I sat in some shops, had a refreshing appy, spoke with the shop guys and was in a mood to lie down with a book or something rather than trek down!!!
Anyway i reached Govind Ghat, took my stuff from the lockers at the Gurudrawa, donated somemoney for the Gurudwara and walked to the main road (NH-58)
There i found 1 share jeep guy, with a group of Sikhs wanting to go to Badrinath. The cab driver wanted Rs 200 per head for a trip to Badrinath (1 hour). I agreed and got into the jeep.
Wow. The pleasures of motorized transport. After trekking 4 continuous days, it was good to sit in a jeep and have conversations with the Sikhs. Apparently the guy was an army guy and he was accompanying his 2 sisters and a brother to Badrinath for darshan.
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| Tapt Kund |
I say goodbye to the Army guy and his sisters. I check in at GMVN - Devlok at Badrinath. I was dead tired. Had the most amazing Dal + Jeera Rice and crashed.....
Woke up at 5pm, feeling slightly better. Decided to check out the scene at Badrinath and have a darshan at the temple.
I check out the Tapt Kund just near the Badrinath temple. A natural spring that possesses therapeutic characteristics Tapt Kund is believed to be the holy abode of Lord Agni. Pilgrims believe that a holy dip in this sacred pond relieves them from their sinful deeds and thought. The pond water measures 45°C temperature and it is located above the riverbank. It makes every visitor enthralled with its rejuvenating gush. A hot water spring in the midst of snowy peaks of Himalayas is quite a wonderful vista of nature that persuade even an impudent to think about the marvel of the creator.
Had dinner and crashed.
Audio Log
Food Watch
The food at the GMVN's hotel Devlok is ok. Simple food.The other option is Hotel Saket. They have good Punjabi Thali's.
Soul Space
Badrinath Dham. There is a place to sit in your inner silence. Some great vibrations here.
Its 4:30 am and i'm in the bus stop at Badrinath, its kinda cold and there was no one!
The Utharkhand Parivahan bus guy does not turn up and i just end up waiting.
Just when i thought its going to be a long and boring day, interesting developments occur!
I hear a foreigner talking in Hindi with a weird accent. I meet couple of guys going to Rishikesh too. One guy is from Russia and another is from Malaysia. The Russian guy speaks hindi and the Malaysian guy does not know a word of Hindi! I was fascinated by this odd couple :P
Max is a PHD in world religions and vedic studies and Vicky is a doctor who studied in Russia! We have interesting conversations and time just flies. . Conversations bout the universe, Are we in the Dwapara Yuga?, Sikhism and the traditions of the Gurudwara, Re-Incarnation and the Souls evolution.... Max is has knowledge on any religion and is fascinating company.
Its 6:30 and we reach Rishikesh! We check into a cheap budget hotel and Max takes me and Vicky to the Ganga Arati on the banks of the river Ganga Arati.
The Ganga Aarti at Parmarth Niketan ashram is organized and performed by ashram residents, particularly the children who are studying the Vedas there. The ceremony commences with the singing of bhajans (devotional songs), prayers, and a hawan (a purifying and sacred ritual that takes place around a fire, with the offerings made to Agni, the fire god). The lamps are lit and the aarti occurs as the final part of the ceremony. The children sing along with the spiritual head of the ashram, in sweet, haunting voices. A huge statue of Lord Shiva overlooks the proceedings.
We have great dinner at the Buddha Cafe and i crash. Next morning i head back to Delhi and my holiday is over.
Food Watch
Badrinath Dham. There is a place to sit in your inner silence. Some great vibrations here.
Day 7 - Badrinath ( 3753 m) to Mana (3760 m)
The next morning i wake up to clear skies and an amazing view of the Neelkanth mountain. Beyond that mountain is Kedarnath...Someday i shall visit Kedarnath (holy for lord Shiva)
I freshen up and head to the Badrinath mandir for the morning darshan. After that i just wait outside the hotel and ask anyone for a share cab to Mana village.
Mana is the last village this side of the Indian border. Beyond Mana is the Chinese border.
I find couple of guys from Bangalore who also want to go to Mana. We reach a huge sign indicating that you have reached the end of NH 58 and Mana is the last Indian village.
We get off and i ask those guys to go on towards Vasudhara falls as I sit and have some breakfast in the village. I also spot the Youth Hostel guys from Gujarat. I met these guys in Auli just 5 days back...
Vasudhara falls is around 7km from Mana village and the falls fall from a great height of 125 m and its supposed to be spectacular.
This morning i was not sure if i would trek as my back hurt and my cold got worse. But after getting to Mana and drinking some hot piping chai, all was forgotten and i started trekking.
The village as such is pretty quaint, with people farming and going bout their business.
There was no one on this trek.....it was just me, the sound of the AlakNanda river, the chirping ofthe occasional bird and the winds whispering to your ear..... These are the kinds of treks that are meant for your soul.
After bout 2 hours of trekking, i spot the water fall and 30 mins later, am there...
Vasudhara falls drops from a height of 125 meters, but due to the height the water falls down like a shower of droplets. It was really cold out there!
I go towards the smaller fall as its more accessible. You go sit under the fall and the spray instantly refreshes you, the water is so pure to drink! I sit under the spray for 5 mins and i luved the cool feeling on my head.
What a spot this is... The tranquility of the place was amazing, no wonder why all the yogis choose to go to the Himalayas to meditate....There are spectacular views everywhere you look.
After sometime, i decided to go back to Mana. The return trip was just took 1 and half hours.
I reach the Saraswati river near Mana village. Mana has lot of legends associated with it. It is said that sage Vyaasa was disturbed by the gushing waters of river Saraswathi while reciting Mahabharatha, and he asked her to go underground. There is a stream in Mana, supposedly Saraswathi, which is visible for a short distance after which it flows underground.
This is the Hindustan ki Anthim Dukhan! You better buy something here and support him!
I also visit the crowded Vyas gufa. According to legends, Vyaasa used to sit in his cave and recite Mahabharatha while Ganesh used to write it all down sitting in the other cave.
I head back to Badrinath on a share cab with some guys from Pune and I once again visit the Badrinath temple in the evening and go back and crash in the hotel.
Tomorrow am taking the 5am bus to Rishikesh... My holiday is getting over :(
Food Watch
The food at the GMVN's hotel Devlok is ok. Simple food.
The other option is Hotel Saket. They have good Punjabi Thali's.
I freshen up and head to the Badrinath mandir for the morning darshan. After that i just wait outside the hotel and ask anyone for a share cab to Mana village.
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| Last village of India! |
We get off and i ask those guys to go on towards Vasudhara falls as I sit and have some breakfast in the village. I also spot the Youth Hostel guys from Gujarat. I met these guys in Auli just 5 days back...
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| Spectacular scenery towards Vasudhara |
There was no one on this trek.....it was just me, the sound of the AlakNanda river, the chirping ofthe occasional bird and the winds whispering to your ear..... These are the kinds of treks that are meant for your soul.
After bout 2 hours of trekking, i spot the water fall and 30 mins later, am there...
Vasudhara falls drops from a height of 125 meters, but due to the height the water falls down like a shower of droplets. It was really cold out there!
 |
| Enjoy the spray |
What a spot this is... The tranquility of the place was amazing, no wonder why all the yogis choose to go to the Himalayas to meditate....There are spectacular views everywhere you look.
After sometime, i decided to go back to Mana. The return trip was just took 1 and half hours.
I reach the Saraswati river near Mana village. Mana has lot of legends associated with it. It is said that sage Vyaasa was disturbed by the gushing waters of river Saraswathi while reciting Mahabharatha, and he asked her to go underground. There is a stream in Mana, supposedly Saraswathi, which is visible for a short distance after which it flows underground.
This is the Hindustan ki Anthim Dukhan! You better buy something here and support him!
I also visit the crowded Vyas gufa. According to legends, Vyaasa used to sit in his cave and recite Mahabharatha while Ganesh used to write it all down sitting in the other cave.
Tomorrow am taking the 5am bus to Rishikesh... My holiday is getting over :(
Audio Log
Food Watch
The food at the GMVN's hotel Devlok is ok. Simple food.
The other option is Hotel Saket. They have good Punjabi Thali's.
Soul Space
Badrinath Dham. There is a place to sit in your inner silence. Some great vibrations here.
Badrinath Dham. There is a place to sit in your inner silence. Some great vibrations here.
Day 8 - Badrinath ( 3753 m) to Rishikesh (372 m)
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| Meet Max and Vicky |
We introduce ourselves and Max from Russia and Vicky from Malaysia. We buy tickets on a bus that starts at 6:30 am.
Max is a PHD in world religions and vedic studies and Vicky is a doctor who studied in Russia! We have interesting conversations and time just flies. . Conversations bout the universe, Are we in the Dwapara Yuga?, Sikhism and the traditions of the Gurudwara, Re-Incarnation and the Souls evolution.... Max is has knowledge on any religion and is fascinating company.
Its 6:30 and we reach Rishikesh! We check into a cheap budget hotel and Max takes me and Vicky to the Ganga Arati on the banks of the river Ganga Arati.
 |
| Ganga Arati |
The Ganga Aarti at Parmarth Niketan ashram is organized and performed by ashram residents, particularly the children who are studying the Vedas there. The ceremony commences with the singing of bhajans (devotional songs), prayers, and a hawan (a purifying and sacred ritual that takes place around a fire, with the offerings made to Agni, the fire god). The lamps are lit and the aarti occurs as the final part of the ceremony. The children sing along with the spiritual head of the ashram, in sweet, haunting voices. A huge statue of Lord Shiva overlooks the proceedings.
We have great dinner at the Buddha Cafe and i crash. Next morning i head back to Delhi and my holiday is over.
Audio Log
Food Watch
I highly recommend Buddha Cafe and Ganga Cafe. Very good quality Pasta, Enchilada and Sandwiches.
Try the chocolate ball at the Buddha Cafe! Yummy!
Soul Space
Tons of ashrams for your soul! Attend the Ganga Arati near Ram Jhula. Its so good for your soul.
Tons of ashrams for your soul! Attend the Ganga Arati near Ram Jhula. Its so good for your soul.
